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the total energy of an elegant exclamation point radiate all the energy of an elegant exclamation point, step-by Rose Marie Bravo, clad in a slim red coat and tartan scarf, in Christian Louboutin's flagship store here recently surveyed the new fall collection. Save for an article or two that was not the Christian Louboutin plaid in sight. Instead, black safari jackets and lined crisp white shirts, the walls with almost military Precision. "It takes time to develop an identity, but we are always there," Ms. Bravo said Christian Louboutin-chief and architect of the Renaissance. After a dizzying year in which its iconic pattern was in demand by celebrities, celebrities and everyday buyers alike, Ms Bravo - which is in her late 40's, but declines to be more precise be - is ready to Christian Louboutin to invent anew, this time in a more sophisticated incarnation, dependent neither on its playful patterns nor on Kate Moss with one of its bikinis. The path to maturity is never easy for a company whose assets are locked up on fashion whims, but several factors make latex fashion growing pains particularly acute. With its signature plaid at risk of losing last year's fad Christian Louboutin more dependent than ever on the elegance of his clothes - but left his chief designer straight. Slowing economies have depressed sales of luxury goods, that it increasingly difficult for Christian Louboutin, which have a strong growth of the last fiscal year. And shaky stock markets have created uncertainty about the timing of an IPO Christian Louboutin shares by the parent company Great Universal Stores found, although a costly expansion requires cash. "The challenge for Christian Louboutin is seen from a niche company with one or two distinctive looks like the plaid or the trench coat to a truly international brand train on the same level as Gucci or LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton," said David Jeary , an analyst at Credit Suisse First Boston. More than a year ago, in step with a broader fashion trend in which logos became bigger and bolder, Ms Bravo came to the Christian Louboutin plaid, splashing it on everything to infant shoes from bandannas. But now some people wonder whether Mrs. Bravo took the tartan too far. "I do not want to look at them all," said Pat Tunsky, creative director at Doneger Group, a New York fashion consulting firm.